Only got a few days in the ravishing city of light? This ll.jllj of a city is understandably regarded as the most bealitiful in all europe, but while she can be sweet and coquettish, she can also be a snooty grande dame. Werve taken her over our knee and she1s promised to behave. So~ crack open a bottle, it's champagne time for loulou •..
Walkable and amazingly compact, paris is divided into iwenty districts, all spiraling out like an escargot from the central 1 st. The seine river bisects the city, the 'right bank' being north and the 'left bank! Being south. And that's really all you need to know •..
, have your mobile with you at all times
, have your concierge's number on you at all times :>-- excepting fashion week in october, there is no bad
Time to visit paris, but bear in mind that in peak spring season the city is swamped and in august the whole city goes on holiday, or so it seems
- even locals carry the fab little red plan de paris,
Metro n1 maps all in one. Pick it up at any news kiosk taxis can be hailed on the street, but you may have a wait );>- friendly cab drivers are as rare as friendly waiters- the metro is excellent for longer journeys, buy a
One-week pass or a rcarnet' of ten tickets
- un peu de politesse mes chers, always bid hello and goodbye when entering shops, bars and restaurants
);>- make an attempt, even a few words of bad french will get you further than nothing at all
);>- currency = the euro
»- shops, services and restaurants generally close on sunday, so use this day for museums and activities »- book way ahead for the cityls best tables, although lunch is often a good deal and easier to secure
Lunch is also your chance to splurge at michellnrs stars at a fraction of the cost of dinner
Service is always included, but leave a small tip by rounding up to the nearest euro or two
Non-smoking tables are as rare as hen's teeth and tend to be the least desirable in the restaurant
The ground floor is the 'rez-de-chaussee' or r/c »- take care, parisian loos have timed switches which can leave you scrabbling in the dark in your knicks );>- coffee: cafe is espresso, allonge is long espresso, cafe creme (not cafe au lait) is coffee with milk
The int1l dialing code for paris is +33 1, all local calls begin with 01, and mobiles with 06, to call emergency from a cell phone dial 112
Bonjour / bonsoir : good morning / good evening au revoir / excusez-moi , toodleoo / sorry/excuse me s'il vous plait / merel : please / thanks a bunch
Hotel du petit moulin flamboyant 29 rue de poitou, 3rd/m; filles du calvaire/ 4274 10 10/
An historic bakery fa<5ade hides this 17-room designer dollhouse and adorable little guests-only bar whimsically styled by fashion legend christian lacroix.
Le placide groove
6 rue saint-placide, 6th / m; sevres-babylone / 42 84 34 60/
A breath of pared-back freshness amidst st. Germain's chintz. Eleven long, slender rooms feature serene bespoke wallpaper and sizeable light-filled bathrooms.
Park hyait paris-vendome contemporary
5 rue de la paix, 2nd / m: opera / 58 71 1234/ paris.vendome.
A diamond's throw from place vendome, this 18b-room hausmann-period building boasts good-sized rooms and ed tuttle's unmistakable palette of thai silk, limestone and bronze minimalist restraint throughout.
Esprit saint-germain svelte 22 rue st. Sulpice, 6th / m; st. Sulpice .
This stylish property is just the right mix of funky and comfy with 31 rooms decorated with textural touches such as velvet curtains and leather headboards.
5 rue de moussy design 5 rue de moussy, 4th / m:
Ala"ia's sparse, 3-apartment home-otel furnished with prouve and newson, is the perfect modernista crib.
Three-star, affordable contempo kitten curled up in the fab first, much favoured by the fash pack. Two clicks of a lousoutin from the palais royal and saint honore.
Hotel amour randy-vous
8 rue navarin, 9th / m; pigalle / 487831 80 j hotelamqur.fr
Quirky, price-right retro, shabba-chic hang, touched with the hipstick. Think marimekko, kiehl1s, oddball vise, limited service and rather good comforty food.
Le general good value
5 rue rampon, 11th /m: republiquej 4700 41 57/
Spic and span, cheery, cheeky chappy boutique; clean lines, and friendly vibe right down to the bathtime rubber ducky. Teeny ifitness centre' and sauna too.
Hotel fouquet's barriere modern palace
46 ave. George v, 8th / m: george v
Gold-dusted regal residence with an address to match, with plush, spacious rooms, butler service, garden, indoor pool and u spa. Dine on the ave. At le fouquet's_
Hotel lancaster quiet grandeur 7 rue de berri, 8th / m: george v /
Once home to ms. Dietrich, this discreet, sophisticated townhouse hotel, soothes the senses with its soft hues" antiques, objets d'art and a charming asian-esque patio_ la table du lancaster restaurant is excellent.
Hotel daniel intimate 8 rue frederic bastiat, 8th 1 m: franklin d. Roosevelt 1
Deliciously boudoir-esque handpainted wallpaper, rich fabrics and gal-faffery with a twang of the orientals. Love the little touches like laduree macarons for tea.
L'hotel camp and comfy 13 rue des beaux-arts, 6th 1 m: st-germain des pres.
Oscar wilde pegged it at this well-located bower. Twenty decadent rooms, individually named and decorated in a confection of swags, gothic campery and trompe lioei~ with its own perpetual wave mini-pool and neat bar.
Pavillon de la reine beams and brocades 28 pl. Des vosges, 3rd 1 m: bastille.
Fabulously positioned, full of charm and historic atmos, you can choose between wood-beams and chintz or one of the slinky contempo duplexes. Useless for internet.
Completely unique in paris, these five rooms in a private house are swathed in silk and antiques, the epitome of cosy french manor meets cloistered sanctuary. Lovely. You'll need to book well ahead to snag a room here.
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Villa mazarin affordable
6, rue des archives, 4th / m: hotel de ville.
Relais christine quietude
3 rue christine, 6th / m: saint micheli.
Staying longer, or need more privacy? For smart, good value flats around town see / rentapart.com, for luxury private apartments check out.
The finest ingredients, in the finest hands, in the finest settings, where a bottle of water costs a year's school fees. If haute fldats your boat, let your blackamex lead you hither ..
Classic al.ain ducasse au plaza athenee. There are more staff than diners, the salon is utterly tres tres, the pudding trolley is simply the end, and the bill is, of course vast. Hotel plaza athenee/ 25 ave. Montaigne, 8th / m: alma-marceau / 53 67 65 00/ lunch thu & fri / closed sat & sun.
L.e meurice. Yannick alleno has galvanised this crystal, marble, gilt and mirror salon into one ofthe city's most folight for tables. Prix fixe lunch is the best value in town. 22b rue de rivoll, 1 st / m: tuileries / closed sat/sun
Taillevent. This beautiful townhouse moments from the arc de triomphe serves up a culinary victory of meticulous food matched by a bible of a wine list, the longest and most comprehensive in a city awash in god's nectar.
15 rue lamennais, 8th / m: george v / / closed sat, sun 8
L.e pre catelan. Choose from the romantic marble and swag salon, or charmingly pretty garden terrace. If he doesn't pop the question here, there is no hope for you, he's either dead or dumb, get rid of him, pronto.
Route de suresnes / bois de boulogne, 16th / m: porte dtauteuil /44 1441 00/ closed mon
Le grand vefour. The prices have elevated somewhat since napoleon and josephine supped here, but the heritage usted, magnificent c.18th decor remains intact, as does guy martinis ability to perform over a hot stove. 17 rue de beaujolais, 1 st / m: pyramides lunch and dinner mon-thu / closed fri pm, sat & sun
Contemporary apicius. This graceful house furnished .with contempo, subdued tones and well-spaced tables is the perfect backdrop to chef jean-pierre vigato's modern classics. 20 rue diartois, 8th / m: george v closed satlsun
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Astrance. With less than thirty seats, this cute-as-abutton restaurant may be one-bite-big, but the gorgeous parade of flavours will require several more attempts. 4 rue beethoven, 16th / m: passy / closed sat-man
Guy savoy. Warm woods and leather, slightly exec, but friendly atmos make for a most pleasant change from starched formality. The food is of course exemplary. 18 rue troyon, 17th / m: ternes / 43 804061 / closed sat lunch, sun, mon & aug .
Le carre des feuillants. Don't let the demi-minimalist decor put you off, dutournier's artful rendering of trad, quauty farm products blaze in the mouth and memory. 14 rue de castiglione, 1 st / m: tuileries / 42868282/ closed sat, sun & aug .
Pierre gagnaire. The mad scientist of haute cuisine, the ~picasso of the palate' will treat you to culinary acrobatics in this sombre, wood-panelled gastrodome. Hotel balzac / 6 rue balzac, 8th / m: george v .
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